Just got back from the Havasupai Reservation in Arizona after an amazing backpacking trip with Kevin, Erin, and Jim. My muscles are finally beginning to feel normal again, and some of the bruises are starting to fade...
On Friday March 30th, I flew from Hartford to Denver and met up with Kevin. We left at 7 A.M. on Saturday expecting the drive to the trailhead to last about 12 hours. Traffic was backed up for about an hour before the Eisenhour tunnel in the Rockies, where snow blew across the roads. Although our trip started cold and snowy, by the afternoon we were shedding layers as we crossed the desert. We crossed through Utah to reach Arizona. As it turned out, the estimate was a bit off -- it took us 17 hours total to reach the trailhead. We arrived at midnight and drove around the parking lot before finding Erin and Jim sleeping in the back of their pickup. We laid our sleeping bags out not far from the canyon edge (but not too close either) and slept as best we could given the wind and cool air (and dogs who sniffed us during the night).
The next morning we woke up at 6 to a spectacular view. The guys had a chorizo breakfast and soon we were ready to begin the 10 mile hike to the campground in the canyon. It was hot, dry, and dusty, and my body rebelled against carrying a pack, but the views were beautiful, even before we reached the first waterfall. After 8 miles we reached the village, where we registered and rested for a bit -- I needed to sit. The final two miles went by quickly though and we finally rounded a corner to see the spectacular first waterfall. From there we hiked into the campground and found our own site, right on the river and with picnic tables. (There were also the most amazing composting toilets -- cleanest public bathrooms I've ever used.) The whole time, we had trouble staying awake past 9 P.M.
The next day we headed in the opposite direction out of the campground, past the regular portapotties that get airlifted out by helicopter and toward Mooney Falls. Early on we found we had to walk through two caves that were marked by a warning: proceed at your own risk sign. Once through the caves we scoffed at the warning signs, only to realize they were actually for the next part : a climb straight down the canyon wall, hanging onto chains. Terrified, I managed it, and in relief we spent time swimming, jumpking, and wading through the beautiful blue river. (It's unreal blue green color comes from lime.) We hiked on for a bit longer, hoping to reach Beaver Falls, but soon decided to turn back for lunch. Climbing back up near Mooney Falls proved to be easier than going down, especially if I didn't look down. After eating we explored some of the natural caves in the canyon walls near the campsite.
The next day we'd hoped, following the same route, to hike to the Colorado River, but it proved too far. Not disappointing, however, because we were treated to some spectacular views and swimming holes along the way. (Including one climb up a rock wall that looked deceivingly easy, but proved to be more difficult than the Mooney Falls climb. Near the top there was about about a 3 foot space with no foothold. Unfortunately, I got stuck and had to be pulled up and over by Jim and Kevin. Undignified, but I managed to get down with slightly less help on the way home.) We waded across the river about six times while following the trail, and sometimes the water reached our waists. Even though the water was icy, it felt good after hiking in such hot, dry conditions.
On Wednesday it was time to hike back out. We considered hiring horses to carry our stuff, but decided to tough it out. (There were pack horses everywhere -- it seemed like the majority of our fellow campers had hired horses to ride in on, or at least carry all their bags. It's hard to estimate how many people actually carried all their own in stuff in, but we definitely felt like the minority.) The first 7 or 8 miles flew by, much faster and easier than the way down. Then came the last mile, which we had been dreading -- uphill the whole way with no shade. I slowly plodded along, often doubting I'd make it, but we did, and even finished it together. The snack RV, however, was closed and we were denied the ice cream we'd been looking forward to.
We had to stay good-bye to Jim and Erin as they left to head back to San Diego. Kevin and I decided to go back through New Mexico, and it saved us a few hours. For the record, I started learning how to drive a standard!!! I was not much help in the driving overall, but I did spend a couple hours in each direction learning...thanks to Kevin's patience.
My short notes on the trip fail to do it any justice. I've never seen such beautiful places, with water falls everywhere and clear blue water. I'd do it again (although I'd pack lighter!), the sore muscles were definitely worth the experience. And, of course, I haven't mentioned enough how wonderful the company was, and how good it was to see them all again after more than a year. Time to start planning the next trip....
climbing down the rocks near Mooney Falls. I'm terrified.
Right before we started the above climb (I'm still smiling).
Another climb. It looks easier but wasn't.
Group shot!
